America’s #1 Hitchhiker links to Kindred Souls

Hitching Tenn
After my packs were stolen in Texas, I traveled with my laptop backpack and a suitcase on rollers (which quickly wore out). This is Tennessee in April.

“Driver, driver, may I have a ride,
Yes sir, yes sir, step inside.”

Hitchhikers rhyme

At the outset of 2013, I set out to write about American traveling carnivals but all the hitchhiking, about 15,000 miles through the US and Canada, meant I also wrote about hitchhiking.

When a famous hitchhiking Web site, Velabas, linked yesterday to Eyes Like Carnivals, I decided to list the hitchhiker Web sites out there.

BTW, Velabas is so much more than just a hitchhiking site. The artist behind it wants it to be an extension of his life’s esthetic. Read him.

One more thing, reading these Web sites showed me what I already thought might be true.

I hitched the more miles and states in North America in 2014 than anyone, making me America’s #1 Hitchhiker.

Until proven wrong, that’s my ride.

“Hitchin’, hitchin’ ain’t so dumb
Bitchin’, bitchin’, frickin’ fun
Next time, next time, watch my thumb
Thank you, thank you says this one.”

Rhyme by America’s #1 Hitchhiker

HERE are more hitchhiking sites:

Velabas – Worldwide hitchhikers feed links to Eyes Like Carnivals”
http://www.velabas.com/hitchhikers.php

Digihitch
http://www.digihitch.com/

Hitch-Hiking References
http://bernd.wechner.info/Hitchhiking/

Nomadic Forever
http://nomadicforever.blogspot.com/

Hitch the World, indefinite vagabond travel (aka The Modern Nomad)
http://hitchtheworld.com/

The Dromomaniac.com
http://thedromomaniac.com/

A Girl and Her Thumb – there is no destination
http://agirlandherthumb.wordpress.com/

Gone with the Backpack – A girl, a backpack and a world to discover! (aka. Gone with the Backpack)
http://gonewiththebackpack.blogspot.com.au/

Agua – Potable
http://jackspacey.blogspot.com/

Kabuki – Mono Traveler on a Bike
http://kabukim0n0.wordpress.com/

Melomakaroma – Life is a journey and it’s damn sweet
http://melomakarona.tumblr.com/

Open Destination: Hitchhike the World
http://www.opendestination.ca/

Hitchhiking Around the World
www.scribd.com/doc/9926987/Hitchhiking-Around-the-World/

Hitcher Feeds
http://hitcherhfeeds.webege.com/

Wolf’s Howl still Echoes

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Roadside Oil Boom
This oil rig in a farmer’s field on the Bakken Formation in North Dakota is one of hundreds I saw hitchhiking down from Canada, along with fires burning from the tops of gas towers. You could see North Dakota’s oil boom from the road.

“Love will find a way through paths wolves fear to prey.”
Lord Byron

On the longest single hitchhike ride of my life, my widower regaled me with stories of deadly Russian roulette, steamy affairs, attempted murder, miraculous escapes from death and a wolf bite on the ass that turned a woman into a wife and a wolf into a man. We also got temporarily stranded when his vehicle broke down, and he spent 2 hours reading a guide on oil filters to fix it. Luckily, he’s a good mechanic and we didn’t have a movie-level car breakdown.

Such are the dynamics of long car rides with strangers and a curious passenger.

Larry Stout and I drove Alaska, Yukon, British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, North Dakota and Minnesota.

Along the Alaska and the Trans-Canada highways we crossed mountain ranges and rivers on the way to the Mississippi. For five days and nearly 3,000 miles we ate, drank and slept in that old pick-up truck.

We covered serious territory, geographic and personal.

Take a Tok

In August, Alaska’s days were still long and the state was experiencing a record number of days hot days, without rain.

My last carnival was at the Tanana Valley State Fair in Fairbanks. I hitched 200 miles to Tok the previous day on my way to the lower 48. One of my lifts was an Alaska Highway worker who let me stay overnight on his trailer couch in Tok.

In the morning, the public works worker gave me a treasure trove of trail mixes and I ate as I walked to the closest gas station.

Just seconds after I put down my backpack and sleeping bag, I spotted Larry’s Indiana plates but it was he who approached me about a ride. He was cautious about how far we’d go but I said anywhere was fine.

Tok, population about 1,000, prides itself on recording the lowest temperature in the United States, -80 Fahrenheit in 2009. It is a former boom town nicknamed “Million Dollar Camp” when the highway was being built.

Its a small town with motels and campgrounds for travelers coming and going across the Canadian border. Previously, hitchhiking up to Anchorage from Chicago, I spent a couple days there beside the road.

Larry began the ride by saying he is either 45 or 48 years old, he wasn’t sure. His twangy stories were told with grammatical “eccentricities.”

“I done did this” and “I learned him that.”

Larry hauled a fiber optics trailer from Indiana to Anchorage and was returning home in his 1994 Chevrolet Ram 3500, 6.5 diesel with 250,000 miles.

He’s a jack of all trades, including truck driver, mechanic, tree trimmer, roofer, concrete worker and handyman.

We didn’t get to the edge of Tok before I knew I was in the presence of an American original at work.

American doll, Hoosier wolf

Over the five days and the thousands of miles he told story after story but one of the most compelling started with a jarring image.

“I thought I was losing my mind,” he said. “I yelled. I cried. I cursed. I cursed.”

He began describing a disorienting grief. When his wife began dying he began losing his grip.

He kept saying “I was losing my mind” like he couldn’t believe it himself.

It all started when he moved to her small town south of Indianapolis. He rented a place in her mother’s apartment building.

He painted a picture of himself as a clever and hard worker at the local hardware store. In his early 20s he was the personification of amped up energy, which he still is so I can only imagine a younger version.

He’d go to her door and ask her out for a drink and she’d swear at him and slam the door.

She was a Lawless from Hazard, Kentucky, he said. She was a tiny rebel who could swear with the best of them.

“She looked like a little doll. Blond, brown-eyed, little titties and an accent like mine only even more southern. She was 95 pounds tops, TOPS. She was 39 years old but she looked 25. I was 23.”

One day he realized his pitch was all wrong.

“I said, ‘I know what’s wrong, you don’t like to drink!’ So I asked her out to dinner.”

That first date at the local diner they talked about carburetors, she was a mechanic too and proud she knew how to put them together.

When he walked here up the stairs to her door, he let out a wolf howl and bit her on the ass.

Ahhooooo! Chomp!

Carburetor talk. A wolf howl. An ass bite.

It turned out to be the primal, epiphanal moment of Larry’s life.

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Larry Stout checks the engine, with 250,000 miles on it.

Road back

He quit drinking and they married. They had 20-some years together before cancer took her.

He married one of her best friends after she was gone and the jack-of-all-trades is slowly rebuilding himself. He appears to be summoning up parts of who at he once was to come up with something new.

After five days and all those stories later, he dropped me off at 2 am at a McDonald’s in a tough part of St. Paul.

I was pretty sure I was near the Minnesota State Fair but I had the dead of morning still to survive before going to look for work at the fairgrounds.

At an all-night diner I pulled out my laptop and began typing his stories before the afterglow wore off.

Listening to stories on long car rides you can’t make eye contact for long. So you must listen as you look out the window.

On this route, out this window, stunning scenery flew past.

So there it was, a curious effect, wild landscapes and the stories of a new person forming in the echo of a wolf’s howl.

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This is my 11th month in my year of working in traveling carnivals and hitchhiking between jumps. I’ve traveled 20,000 miles, through 36 states, Canada and Mexico. I’ve worked for eight carnivals. I’m working on what to do in my last month.

Mardi Gras Me Home

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An Army veteran, Wayne was hired to set up rides but took time to photo his dream house, the Mardi Gras house, at the Okefenokee Fair, in Waycross, Ga.

“When the rich, go out and work,
When the rich, go out and work.”

“When the Saints Go Marching In”
Traditional Mardi Gras lyric

Wayne’s dream home appeared as the morning fog lifted at the Okefenokee Fair.

The Iraq/Afghanistan veteran stood grinning and taking pictures of the Mardi Gras house.

“Wouldn’t you love to live in a home like that,” he said.

When he mentioned that preposterous idea, I got out my camera and took pictures of him taking pictures.

Still, he defended his love of the Mardi Gras house and got me thinking of all the places I slept this year in traveling carnivals.

The face of the Mardi Gras house is filled with colorful confetti and crazed partiers at a New Orleans-style bacchanalia.

On the walls are delirious, overstimulated buxom women and laughing musicians beckoning people inside for wild times.

A local hire for set-up, Wayne stopped setting up other rides so he could take picture after picture of his dream castle.

Yet the Mardi Gras was a real-life home to two carnies, who lived in the storage rooms in the back. If the ac outside fan not turning on, it’s important to have it checked to keep the environment comfortable, especially in hot weather.

While a Mardi Gras house might look bizarre in a normal neighborhood, in this neighborhood the Mardi Gras house fit.

The traveling Mardi Gras ride is a mirror maze on the first floor, with fun-house mirrors on the second floor and an outside swirling exit slide.

It struck me, what greater way to stay reminded of life’s fortunes and illusions than waking each day in a house of mirrors, mazes, stairs and slides.

“Wouldn’t it be great to have people over in a home like that?” Wayne said.

It reminded me that author Tom Wolfe says many of his characters are motivated by the question – what do people think of me?

Wayne thought people would think it was fun. Wouldn’t he always be happy in his picture home.

I wondered if he thought a happy looking home would internalize the party, the way a kid can feel happier if asked to put on a happy face.

Wayne’s Mardi Gras dream home didn’t seem so ridiculous any more.

I wanted to visit, with a happy face for the ‘delirious, overstimulated buxom women.’

When the saints go marching

After the fair left town, one of the two carnies living in the Mardi Gras went to live the off-season in Waycross, Ga.

He found a girl, her family trailer needed fixing. He could be her fix-it man until the season starts again.

The Mardi Gras house was shipped to Lima, Peru, for a winter engagement.

“Fall asleep in there and you might wake up in Peru,” the former resident joked.

Okefenokee was the last carnival of the year for these carnies and they were scattering to homes across the country.

Some were returning to their families. Some would be homeless soon. Some might be headed for jail.

I knew one carny who jumped bail on a drug charge and was returning to serve time during the off-season. I’ve heard stories of carnies who get arrested for the “three hots and a cot.”

Many Mexican carnies headed home to the Mexican state of Veracruz and the carnival feeder town that I visited in October, Tlapacoyan.

In line for the final day of pay in Okefenokee, I heard a woman laughing that she didn’t know where she would be the next day.

“I had all year to plan, crazy right?” she said squinting, a cigarette hanging from her lips.

“Coming back next season?” someone asked.

Half that line could have answered in one loud Greek chorus.

“Don’t know, no plans.”

Oh, I want to be in that number

I had all year to plan too but I still had no place to sleep.

In Okefenokee, I slept in an outdoor barn and, later, in a semi-truck’s cab.

I slept in a van in a Chicago Heights cow field for a week before getting a bunkhouse room with a missing door and window.

In Northern California, I slept in bunkhouses with bed bugs and fought off the creatures for the better part of two months.

During my hitchhiking between carnival shows, I stayed in homeless shelters in Anchorage, Memphis and St. Paul.

I need deposit money and a job for an apartment. Jobs don’t like references from carnivals.

How am I going to find a home after this, I whined to Tyrone, who worked the Mardi Gras house with me during the fair.

Then on that November morn, Tyrone won the award for the kindest and scariest words of my year in traveling carnivals.

“Come back next year,” he said. “There’s a guy in his 80s that works here. You’ll never have to find an apartment. You can be with us.”

You can be with us, he meant, for the rest of your life.

On this New Year’s Day, I can finally reply, maybe when the saints go marching in.

Mardi Gras requires a lot of supplies, and what better way to store them but in a cottage shed! Beachy Barns has the highest quality cottage sheds for all of your Mardi Gras needs. Call up Beachy Barns today!

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I’ve spent the year with eight traveling carnival troops, hitchhiking between jumps across America. I’ve traveled 36 states, 20,000 miles crisscrossing the US, Canada and Mexico. My year ends in February.

Wild, Wild West Ride: 3 State Fairs with West Crew

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhPg-1qSK48

Free! Free! Free! Click right here and see it all. Never before seen video of the West Crew in Minnesota, in Oklahoma, in Texas state fairs. Biggest carnivals in USA. Be astounded at my juggling. Be mesmerized by my bally. See the Wild, Wild West Crew for Free! Free! Free!

(September, October with Adam West’s Allstate 38. We ran games. Patrick White died suddenly in Texas. Didn’t know I had enough film for a video but know Poynter Institute will be asking for my video training certificate back. Bit jumpy, I blame it on Windows 8 Movie Maker.
BTW–Real bally can’t be that long.
)

Viking Happiness: Hitchhiking Hudson River Valley to Chicago

“Learn a healing song while thou livest.”
Havamal, Poetic Edda, 13th Century Viking poetry

I wanted to scream, whoop, sing “Good morning America how are ya. Don’t you know me I’m your native son.”

Light up the sky, kiss the girls and jig till I trip and laugh.

All I did was take this video. The backstory is long but I’ll give you the short version.

I quit a Hudson River Valley carnival that May morning on my way to Chicago for my daughter’s 8th birthday.

The trip wasn’t planned. My daughter’s birthday was on the line. Only the Taconic State Parkway and local roads to hitch before the interstate. Not good. It was a snap judgment to quit and hit the road.

Tuesday to Friday, 800 miles, it was a very ambitious hitchhike and at times that day I thought, ‘Shit, this time I’m really screwed.’

All day I’d be stopped by state and local cops. In one two hour span, six cops stopped me. When three cops in three squads pulled up, I was both afraid and amused.

“What am I public enemy #1 guys?”

The cops suggested I return to New York City or walk out of the state, to Pennsylvania.

When they left, I wrote on a cardboard sign “84 West,” put it on my back and kept walking west. No thumb out but drivers knew the score.

I was in bad shape just moments before this video.

Miles of walking and then up fast pulled a pick-up truck with a young father, his son and the family dog.

Dad told me to hop in the flatbed. The son looked at me like a work of fiction, or history. About the same age as my daughter, he seemed more confused than the dog.

I threw my packs in the back and that pick-up truck peeled away from the curb. Down the on-ramp for I-84, we sped past other cars. Making time. Free from the cops. Jig? Nooo!

What the video won’t show is what happened before and after, that you’ll have to imagine.

What it shows is 17 seconds of bumpy, windy ride. What you hear is a hitchhiker shouting coordinates. Watch it closely now and know the cargo is alive again and feels swear-at-the-sky joy.

I learned recently that the word “happiness” comes from the Old Norse word “happ,” it literally is a Viking word for “good luck” or “change.”

The Rune symbol is called a Fehu: Fehu

My change of luck happens off camera but it is felt as I speed into the coming nightfall.

Still, I’ve long known happiness appears in moments, often short unexpected bursts, if only for 17 seconds.

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I’m in the tenth month of my year working in traveling carnivals and hitchhiking between jumps. I’ve worked with eight carnival companies and hitched 13,500 miles across 26 US states and western Canada. Including travel to Mexico and 36 states in all, I’ve logged more than 20,000 miles. I’m now writing book proposals and looking for agents. I may work more carnivals before I’m finished.

Cuban Refugee tells Dramatic Story to Hitchhiker

Osvaldo Guzman picked up this hitchhiker near Alligator Alley in Florida after I had spent a few days sleep deprived, sick with the flu and all day without food or water.

In a thick Cuban accent, he said he knows the look and then this.

“So this is the way Cuban guys are ah coming ah here …”

He tells of loosing seven people on a raft from Cuba and after this clip tells me he saw the same look on my face beside the road (he was 10 days on the water on last of three trips).

Now he’s legal. He owns a heating and air-conditioning business and an Amway distributorship. He gave me Amway vitamins and an energy drink and left me at an Alligator Alley rest stop on the side of the road.

He had gone out of his way because he then turned around and headed back east. But not without honking his horn and a thumbs up.

Hitchhiking in a Pick-up Truck to Okefenokee

Hitchhiking to Okefenokee Fair

Shoes with holes. Broke. Hitchhiking. Fifty-four years old. No girlfriend. No home. No prospects for a book. Thank God I’m not weeping (which come to think about it would have made a much, much better video).

I’m Ihitchhiking in the back of an old pick-up truck from Jacksonville, Fla. to Waycross, Ga. for the Okefenokee Fair. The drivers couldn’t let me inside because of the dogs. I ran a Mardi Gras house of mirrors at the fair,

The Errol Flynn Dance of a Pecan Picker

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Dance in the foreground, the Tornado in the background on teardown night at Okefenokee Fair.

“Dance, when you’re broken open. Dance, if you’ve torn the bandage off. Dance in the middle of the fighting. Dance in your blood. Dance when you’re perfectly free.”
― Rumi

Michael danced wildly, rhythmically, pathologically to techno while running the swing ride. He busted freestyle moves I’ve never seen, moves like stories.

He ran a kiddy swing but when he spoke his stories were gang stories, of Detroit’s Errol Flynns and the BK.

He was a local hire last week at the Okefenokee Fair, in Waycross, Ga.. He ran a kiddie swing ride while I was at the Mardi Gras across the midway – a house of mirrors.

Tall, rail thin, with a deep southern accent, he went by several aliases. I went with the simplest, “Dance.”

When the house of mirrors was slow, my coworker Tyrone and I stood shoulder to shoulder on our heals.

“Pathological,” I said.

“Yea, he’s good,” he said.

I had no idea what I was seeing. Tyrone had a clue.

Move like Jagger, move like Flynn

In every town I’ve gone to this year I’ve tried to capture a sense of the surrounding landscape. In Martinez, Ca., I was crazy about wandering around one of the hometowns of naturalist John Muir. I walked the town, I searched the Internet and came up with this quote from Muir’s eldest daughter, Wanda.

“If you had known him, you would have seen only one side of him, and he had many sides. No two people – even his closest friends had quite the same idea of him.”

That quote contains a conceit. Muir wasn’t unique that way.

I should have paid more attention to Dance and his moves, a lesson I learned working with Dance tearing down the kiddie train, the kiddie swing and the carousel nearly until sunrise.

I don’t remember Errol Flynn dancing in movies and there are stories about him having “unenlightened” views of race and Nazism.

Nevertheless, there was a black gang in Detroit that took his name and tagged themselves with the Errol Flynn dance (sometimes called the Earl Flynn).

Dance’s moves were similar to this YouTube Video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxvzqbnT4Vk

Dance told me he was originally from Detroit and that he had uncles in the Errol Flynns, widely considered to be a precursor to current Black gangs.

They were shot many times. They served years in jail. They taught him how they dance, maybe how to live.

Dance also said he was a gang member. However, short of becoming his interrogator, I never figured out if he was a gang member or just a nephew who admired their lifestyle and dance.

I’ve met numerous gang members on the carnival circuit, even in Alaska, where some workers were accused of wearing “colors” so we all had to strictly adhere to uniform shirts and hats.

In Texas, my roommate was a Gangster Disciple. My supervisor was a former gangster. Both still wore gang tattoos visible above their collars.

Tearing down the kiddie swing ride, Dance showed me the Errol Flynn dance.

Ironically, it bore some resemblance to a dance I made up in high school in the 1970s. It was mostly a shuffling hand dance I called “flying birds.”

Dance said he didn’t do it as well as his uncles.

I believe, Dance never messed up a freestyle dance.

Pecans in the Deep South

At about 10 pm Sunday night of teardown, I asked Dance what he does for work.

Long pause.

“I sell pecans,” he said. “I get them in backyards, in the woods. I work 8 to 2, I can make $40 or $50 a day if I work.”

No doubt he did his collections on his bicycle, spray painted gold, from the wide, padded seat to the wheels.

On Thanksgiving, the New York Times carried a story about the pecan season in the Deep South. Output is down as much as 35 percent, due to too much rain some places and not enough in others.

A disease called “scab” is caused by too much moisture and hurts neighborhood pickers like Dance in search of “yard nuts.”

Truman Capote, the Times reminded, wrote a short story about the fall tradition in the Deep South in “A Christmas Memory.”

In my head, I saw a Waycross dancer on a gold painted bicycle wobbling down a southern dirt road with a basket of pecans.

Truth in Dance

Dance ended our teardown night before we finished the carousel, telling our supervisor at 3 am that he had to tend to his sick grandmother.

Earlier in the night he told me he was going to spend this time “with a white woman.” I heard him on the phone telling someone else he was finished with the “white woman” and was going back to his fiance.

I kidded him about breaking the “white woman’s heart.

“Maybe she’s at home waiting for you now thinking Michael’s the man of my dreams. You’re a dream breaker.”

The truth is Dance lied about tending to his sick grandmother. He lied on the phone. He was lying to the ‘white girl.’ He lied to Amusements of America, telling them the next day he worked all night. And he might have made money outside pecan picking, he said he was on parole and waiting for a court date. He didn’t say what he was charged with.

Yet there was truth sprinkled into the mix.

When I think of Dance, I think, he’s an example of why I should pay attention more in the future.

People are telling stories about themselves all the time – sometimes in words, sometimes in dance.

Who works in carnivals?. I can’t say because like Muir’s daughter I only see a side or two. The true side mixes with the false, the good with the bad. The rest I have to imagine. Dance, I imagine, dancing, breaking hearts, picking pecans and riding through life on golden wheels.

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My year working in traveling carnivals isn’t finished until February. I’ve worked traveling carnivals in California, New Jersey, New York, Chicago, Alaska, Minnesota, Oklahoma, Texas and Georgia. I’ve hitched between jumps, about 13,000 miles. I’ve also visited a carnival worker feeder town in Mexico. I might work another carnival but most of my time now will be trying to publish a book on my year.

“Life is a Carnival” from Northwestern University magazine

Purple Prose.jpg

Michael Sean Comerford (GJ84), an award-winning Chicago-based journalist, lives out of his backpack and wrote this essay from a McDonald’s near the State Fair of Texas in Dallas.

Tell us what you think. E-mail comments or questions to the editors at letters@northwestern.edu.
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Writer Michael Sean Comerford works as a carny for creative inspiration.

This week I slept in the same bed as my carnival boss, Chango, which is Spanish for “monkey,” a gang name, not a moniker his mother gave him.

His most remarkable feature is a bulbous belly with a knife-fight scar down the center that swirls like a question mark, with a belly button dot. He loves Tecate beer, Marlboro Reds and chocolate muffins. He is 35 and has been a carny for 17 years. His hair is short shaved, and he wears a more-clever-than-the-mark smile.

In our shared hotel room on our carnival route between the Minnesota and Oklahoma state fairs, he snored like a lion, and I slept the sleep of a hunter.

All year I’ve been sleeping, working and living shoulder to shoulder with this subculture of traveling carnivals from coast to coast in the United States. I’ve worked for six traveling carnivals in eight states and will work for more before ending the year, visiting a feeder town for migrant carnival workers in the Mexican state of Veracruz.

Living on carnival wages, I’ve hitchhiked 12,000 miles of the most stunning roads in North America — along the Alaska Highway, through Denali National Park and across the deserts of the American Southwest.

In traveling carnivals, the wildlife have names like Chunk of Cheese, Cotton Candy Cathy, Lurch, Porkchop, Darko, Shorty, Breeze, John Gotti, Ghost and Cockroach.

In California, in honor of St. Patrick’s Day, Mexican migrant carnies dubbed me “Póg mo thóin,” which is Gaelic for “kiss my ass.”

While hitchhiking, I’ve met drivers who included a Princeton butterfly lepidopterist, a California inventor, a magician, an author, bloggers, criminals, preachers, truckers and a man who said he found the secret of happiness in his yellow school bus in the shadow of a mountain named Pink.

I’ve taken videos of some of these people and written about them on my website, “Eyes Like Carnivals,” and the Huffington Post is running my blog.

The Internet brings immediacy to each story — it is happening as I write. I hope to write a book at the end of the year, adding the perspective of having lived the life.

That immediacy is something I didn’t have in my earlier travels when I wanted the open road as a teacher before writing seriously about lives and struggles for meaning.

A young man possessed, I hitchhiked across North America, Europe, the Middle East and North Africa. I could whip out a road story from the next bar stool but never sat down to pound out a book.

Then years went by, and the stories lost their touch of danger and thrill of the new. I embarked on this year for several reasons, not the least of which is that I want to change myself into a book writer. After spending all my professional life as a daily newspaper journalist, I decided to pull out all the stops and go on the road.

I chose traveling carnivals because they rise up in town centers and neighborhoods across the country for annual festivals, the focus of the community and the year.

Then they disappear in the night, like Brigadoons.

I ask deeply personal questions of carnies and drivers who pick up hitchhikers. I ask about childhood, family, work, money, travel, age, violence, love, sex and “America.”

When this year began, I had “the mother of all doubt” sitting on my shoulders. After all, I turned 54 years old while undertaking the hardest physical work of my life.

Some nights, I tore down carnivals from midnight until the next afternoon. After working a full day on rides, it was a weekly 30-hour work marathon.

I’ve stood on top of a carousel center pole on a greased up crank in a violent lightning storm. I’ve been moments away from fights with younger, stronger carnies. I’ve slept with armies of bedbugs and once woke to a herd of Black Angus cows staring in my open van window.

All for a job that pays $250 to $375 a week, sometimes for 80 to 100 hours of work. So I’ve also been broke, a near constant state for many carnies.

Lying next to Chango, I wondered what dreams these traveling people dream. I’ve read people have more than 100,000 dreams in their lifetime. Each day I listen and write what I hear, what I can intuit. I am here to witness, listening for the heartbeats and watching for the telling clues, like a question mark across a carny’s guts.