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About admin

American Oz is my first book. It combines new journalism with travel stories. I've hitchhiked much of the United States, Canada, Eastern/Western Europe, Middle East and North Africa. I've bicycled three times across America, in Seattle I hopped a freight train and rode back to Chicago with my bike. I've been to more than 90 countries. I swam the headwaters of the Nile, survived a hippo attack, studied Buddhism in the Himalayas and in the Amazon I danced a jig with a jug of White Lightning. I'm the former heavyweight champion of University College Cork, Ireland and I am blessed by Grace, my high school daughter. I wrote stories for the Chicago Tribune, New York Daily News, Chicago Sun-Times, Daily Herald, Moscow Times, Budapest Sun, Budapest Business Journal, Elgin Courier-News, Naperville Star, Copley News Service and several Internet publications. I've attended The Poynter Institute, University of Maryland - College Park, Northwestern University's Medill Graduate School of Journalism, Marquette University and University of College Cork, Ireland. Before that I had the great fortune of a Catholic education from the Jesuits, Viatorians, School Sisters of St. Francis, Bernadine Sisters of St. Francis and Mother Elizabeth Seton's Sisters of Charity.

Carny Philosopher King with Buffalo Bill Beard

Kelly Best

“Someday I’ll wish upon a star
Wake up where the clouds are far behind me
Where trouble melts like lemon drops
High above the chimney tops
That’s where you’ll find me”

Somewhere Over the Rainbow, music by Harold Arlen and lyrics by E.Y. Harburg

The 30-ish bartender sports a shiny bald head, purple triangle earrings and a Buffalo Bill Cody goatee.

I decide to take a seat where the bartender gets ice, so he can pause to talk once in a while.

I’m on the hunt for carnival stories. My duck blind is the main bar in Showtown USA, during its annual traveling carnival trade show in February.

Not many people were there yet. It’s a long rectangular bar with flat screen TVs. Brightly lit, real Italian- painted carousel scenery panels above the bar made it carnival chic.

I remembered an encounter the night before, when I walked in with a carny who knew I was looking for stories.

“There are going to be hundreds of people here tonight,” he said, “and each of them will have thousands of stories.”

We chuckled and looked around the room, not at the each other.

“And half of them will be related to each other,” I said. “A lot of them will be slaughtering someone else’s story.”

The bartender’s name is Kelly Wilson and he was born into the carnival business. His parents were in the business, he grew up in games and food wagons.

His eyes are clear and he sports an easy, full smile. Buffalo Bill Cody was the greatest showman of the early 20ths Century and the first to join a the first showmen’s association. Kelly Wilson’s look shows he knows his showmen’s traditions. That, plus he knows it looks cool in a place like this.

I just knew the story safe at a carnival trade show would be at the bar and the key is the bartender with the Buffalo Bill beard.

Wilson’s Laws

Kelly learns from everything he comes across, religion, philosophy, music and art. He’d be a humanities scholar if he ever went to college.

“My college is life,” he said as he poured rum and coke.

Then he began mixing disciplines.

“Love and music are my religion,” he said. “Buddhism and Daoism make sense to me.”

He was careful not to “dis” Christianity either. He’s not ruling out ideas so much as seeking unifying laws for life.

“Kindness,” Gandhi and food service are the disparate concepts he’s been mulling.

“Gandhi said you should be the change you wish to see in the world,” he said. “I want to be kind as much as possible. Even to the meanest people.”

Bartending is Kelly’s off-season gig. He’s tried lots of sucker jobs. He’s trained under some good restaurant chefs, so, “I know how to cook.”

The “season” calls him back, though, like it does migrating birds.

“I tried the normal life,” he said. “Every a April I’d get the itch.”

Maybe it’s because he was raised on the road in a cramped blue trailer, in a family of six.

His childhood was spent running around, free rides, free sweets, playing with the other carnival kids from town to town.

He worked some games coming up but he spent more than half his life on the road making cotton candy, gyros, pizzas and hamburgers.

“My whole life, there wasn’t a year I didn’t go out and do something,” he said pouring whiskey and Coke. “My friends always say I’m like the Allman Brothers song, “Ramblin’ Man.” That’s the way we lived in a blue bus.”

When he reached his teen years the cramped living and maybe his phase in life, led to lots of arguing. Sometimes it was great but somewhere it turned.

Music was his savior. At his first “Rave” he had an epiphany. I don’t have to live like this any more.

“It was like the Bob Marley song, ‘If you are unhappy then travel wide.’”

Nevermind he was already traveling wide, it was a freedom song to him.

Unification theory

From July to October he travels the Midwest and South working a Mexican food trailer.

About five years ago he began selling hula hoops on the side. On breaks he went to the meeting room off the bar area so he could hula with kids.

I videotaped the dance. It started out with a “life’s a playground” feel. Then he kept going, part dervish, part “auana,” a Polynesian hula word for “to wander or drift.”

Kelly hears all the wild carnival stories as he pours drinks but I asked him what’s the weirdest thing he ever saw on the road.

He kept pouring drinks and making change but was stumped for a while.

“For me, weirdness is just normal,” he finally said. “Like people having sex in random spots is normal.”

When I prod him about his future, he says maybe he’ll buy his own trailer some day.

Which tells me, he isn’t like some carnival people I’ve known who envied homes in towns they passed.

He was more like a nester, who sets up home where he migrates.

Once again, he searches for the unifying theory of his life.

“I like cooking. I like people. I like traveling. And this is the best way to do all three.”

What I find disorienting about his unified theory is the backdrop. We’re in a carnival bar, everyone in this bar is a carnival person. He was raised in carnivals and lives in carnivals.

Yet he’s not jaded. His theories are idealistic, at times romanticized and wishful.

Bob Marley, the Allman Brothers, Daoism, Buddhism, Christianity, Gandhi, cooking, traveling and “kindness” even to the mean people.

Such are the truths he lives by – Wilson’s laws – as he dances in hula hoops through life with his beard of Buffalo Bill.

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I recently finished working a year in traveling carnivals in California, New Jersey, New York, Chicago, Alaska, Minnesota, Oklahoma, Texas, Georgia and a Florida freak show. I trekked down into Mexico to see the new face of American carnivals, Mexican carnies. I’ve traveled more than 20,000 miles through 36 states, Canada and Mexico. I’m attempting to sell a book on the America I saw from the carny quarters and the side of the highway.

Mexican Faces and Reefer Madness


Video of my Mexican co-workers from San Mateo and Martinez, California to Tlapocoyan, Veracruz, Mexico. I used Son Jarocho music, La Bamba, sung by Los Lobos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k29vkCI8tJI
Video of my Mexican co-workers from San Mateo and Martinez, California to Tlapocoyan, Veracruz, Mexico. I used Son Jarocho music, La Bamba, sung by Los Lobos.

“Don’t shave, don’t shower, don’t care. Be really stinky and wear the same clothes everyday. I think what makes a man sexy is not being self aware. That’s what is really cute to me.”
Gwen Stefani, American singer

Emerging from the shower in the reefer, I was alone in the sleeping quarters for more than a dozen Mexican migrant carnival workers.

Unexpectedly, opportunity was at hand. I went to the Mexican reefer for the shower but when I finished it was empty. My camera was in my pack beside the cramped shower. Time to film.

I rushed, putting my clothes and fast-walking to the front of the bunkhouse trailer. I took tiny steps, in order to avoid slipping on the water I was still dripping.

Wood bunks with thin mattresses were stacked three high on the left wall. Lockers and a table for hotplates and spices lined the opposite wall.

Work clothes hung from bunks to air out. Carnival workers work extraordinary hours, 60 to 80 hour weeks aren’t unusual. Hundred hour weeks are unusual but happen. You didn’t want to miss the bus to the local beat-up, coin-laundromat. The bus was always unscheduled and sometimes skipped a week.

Our reefers in my San Francisco Bay area carnival smelled like work.

I went to film from the opposite side of the trailer, by the refrigerator and sink. It was also near the exit, should I need a quick getaway.

The suspense was crazy high. People in carnivals are always walking around corners. It’s like a Shakespearian play that way, someone is always opening a door, overhearing a scandalous comment or bumping into someone.

Everyone knows what you’ve been eating. They’ve seen what you’ve been drinking. Everyone is guessing about who might be sleeping with whom. I imagine people lying awake listening through the thin bunkhouse trailer walls. Nothing is private and not even your dream life, because people speculate about that too.

The lack of privacy is magnified in reefers because people are piled on top of each other. They didn’t need to listen through walls to hear someone sleep talking. Their meals were communal, everyone pitching in a few Yankee dollars for supplies. The donnikers, (carny lingo for port-a-potties)were just a few feet from the front door of the reefer.

My bargain-basement camera blurred at the least bit of movement. Picture after picture blurred in my shaky hand. I cursed and kept taking unusable pictures.

I decided to take a video, I could always take a snapshot off the video.

If someone walked in while I was panning across the reefer with my camera, there would be hell to pay.

Bosses would be told. I’d be unmasked as a spy.

In the days of carnival lore, disloyal carnies were beaten or thrown from the train. Workers have been beaten for drinking on the job. Some have been beaten for mouthing off to the owner. Some carnivals, allegedly one I worked on later, beat people up for leaving before the end of the season. I had no idea what I might face if caught.

I wasn’t just in danger of being fired or beaten. My year in carnivals could be defeated by gossip. Not only do people know everything about you in the carny quarters but carnies talk across carnivals.

A reluctant spy, I was forced by circumstance into working as a carny but writing every spare moment about their lives.

My spy career began with the a colorful carnival owner and ex-pro wrestler, with the stage-name of Bo Paradise. He owned the first carnival I worked for, Classic Amusement in Hayward, California. However, he fired me after he judged my blogging to be dangerous for business. Then he told me he thought the carnival project was a stupid idea.

No owner will allow a writer in his carnival. Even if I’m hired, I don’t speak Spanish and the new face of the American carnival is Mexican. I won’t have access to the dominant work sector.

Yet there I was showering in the reefer, which was the exclusively Mexican bunkhouse. They’re called ‘reefers’ because they supposedly have ‘refrigeration’ during the summer.

Unlike the bunkhouse I lived in, Mexicans lived rent-free. I paid $50 a week for a six-foot, by five-foot bunk room. They lived shoulder-to-shoulder and slept in stacked bunks.

I befriended my Mexican coworkers and they were comfortable enough to allow me into the reefer unsupervised. Showering in the reefers was another way to open communications.

Being seen with a camera in their quarters would sound alarm bells for management because we already knew Butler Amusements was being sued by Mexican employees. My Mexican pals thought they knew who was suing but their names were deleted from the lawsuit for fear of retribution.

If coworkers knew their identities for sure, those bringing the suit feared for their safety and their ability to ever work again in American carnivals.

Networks of families and friends might blackball them. Agents who recruit workers might take a pass on the trouble makers.

Workers from Mexico are at the mercy of so many forces.

Filed under the name of Doe, the lawsuit alleged substandard living conditions, uncompensated work hours and pay below the minimum wage.

The groups helping with the lawsuit also participated in a study called, “Taken for a Ride,” conducted by American University. The study alleged such abuses are widespread throughout the country.

I eventually worked in carnivals in California, New Jersey, New Mexico, Chicago, Alaska, Minnesota, Oklahoma, Texas, Georgia and Florida. Nobody worked in more carnivals than I worked.

I can’t say abuses are widespread. I can say I’ve witnessed them. I once calculated my hourly wage at roughly $2 to $4 an hour.

The lawsuit and the national study were fresh on people’s minds.

I stood my ground, filming and panning longer and longer and longer. It seemed like forever. Then I tucked the camera in my side-pouch.

A split second later, someone walked in as I walked out.

“Cold water El Grande?” he said.

We laughed. I walked away into the night.

Grateful for the bracing shower of a cold-hearted spy, I smelled of cheap soap and a clean escape.

—————————————————————————————————-

Last month was the end of my year working and living in traveling carnivals around the USA. I lived on carnival wages so I also hitchhiked between jumps. I’ve traveled through 36 states, Canada and Mexico, for more than 20,000 miles. My 15,000 miles of hitchhiking makes me the #1 Hitchhiker in America. I worked carnivals in California, New Jersey, New York, Chicago, Alaska, Minnesota, Oklahoma, Texas, Georgia and Florida. I worked rides, games and one freak show.

Death Defying Father Mike tells Hell Rider stories


This video is brought to you by HoldtheMayoMedia.

“You must not fear death, my lads; defy him, and you drive him into the enemy’s ranks.”
Napoleon Bonaparte

I’ve heard that scholars believe when Shakespeare wrote “All the world’s a stage” and “one man in his time plays many parts,” it may have already have been a well known saying.

That is because people already noticed life’s stages and that not a single role defined a whole life.

Father Michael Juran’s stage is full of characters and so many are him.

You might know him as the Human Battering Ram, the Flying Padre, stunt man in “Man with the Golden Arm,” Burt Reynolds stunt double in Smokey and the Bandit II and Father Mike.

I met Father Mike in the main bar at the headquarters of the International Independent Showmen’s Association in Gibsonton, Florida.

Bellied up to the bar, having a white wine with pals, he took time out to talk to me about his many roles in life.

DSCN0562
Freak Show owner Chris Christ, left, and Father Michael Juran talk at the IISA Trade Show last month.

His life, he says, is part of a “traveling apostolate,” a mission sanctioned by the pope for itinerant workers.

When asked why he was both a priest and a stuntman in circuses and carnivals, he hints there may have been some “pompous asses” who didn’t understand.

“We have this Argentinian, (Pope) Francis, who says remember what Jesus did,” Father Mike said. “He’s popping the bubble of the pompous asses.”

At 65 years old, he’s retired but he’s been a priest for 40 years and a stuntman for 27 years.

He performed the “Human Battering Ram,” in which he is strapped to the front of a car as it crashed threw a burning wall.

He drove his car on two wheels at state fairs and racetracks. He flew over a bridge in the 1974 James Bond film, “The Man with the Golden Gun.” He drove stunts for Burt Reynolds in the 1980 movie “Smokey and the Bandit II.”

He slept in the trailer for Joie Chitwell Thrill Shows and performed priestly duties in his off hours. He heard confessions, performed baptisms “without the paperwork,” and performed carny weddings.

“Jesus didn’t do paperwork,” he’s fond of saying.

In a carny wedding, couples get on a carousel. Words are spoken. Blessings made. The carousel turns three times to symbolize the union.

When the end of the season comes or the end of the relationship, whichever comes first, the couple gets on the carousel which turns three backward three times signifying the carny divorce.

“None of its official,” Father Mike said, and probably all might get him in trouble in some church sectors.

Father Mike had their trust, he said, because he walked among them.

“They’d say, he’s one of us, he’s a performer too,” he said. “I’d say God loves you. I’m just like you.”

Confessions happened behind rides, walking along the midway, anyplace, he said.

“They’d say I want to talk about God’s forgiveness,” he said. ”

It was barroom banter and couldn’t last long as carnival workers came from every corner to shake his hand and share a story.

Father Mike has more stories to tell. A television company is making a documentary about priests that serve the itinerant people at carnivals, circuses, racetracks, rodeos, cruise lines and airports.

Christianity is a religion where the Messiah came from the common people and so it stresses that it is with the common people where the divine is to be found. It is also a death defying religion, one where the Messiah defies death and says followers can too.

Father Mike drove a fast car down those tracks and defied death, hell bent and heaven sent.

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Last month I finished a year in carnivals, hitchhiking between shows. I crossed 36 states, Canada and Mexico on my way to racking up 20,000 miles on the road. Many stories were not written as they happened and are now being written as I write a book about the year.

God, if you’re listening: Sexy hitchhikers vs. drivers

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Pinterest and the fantasy hitchhiker

Posing for camera
Grim reality for drivers.

I was miserable tired after spending the night in the Memphis Union Mission. A light April rain for hitchhikers is mucho bad mojo.

Yet I was surrounded by good mojo. St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital and the Ronald McDonald House were around the corner from my hitchhiking spot along Interstate 40. The Ronald McDonald House gives the sick kids a free room and St. Jude’s gives free treatment.

“No one has ever become poor by giving,” I kept thinking, the architecture around me was built by charity.

After a couple hours I thought of trying to look more needy. Then a young man in a grey Toyota Corolla pulled over and I ran down the highway shoulder with my packs dangling on my arm.

IMG_4393
“Oh no, that’s too much to ask from God,” the driver said.

The driver told me that he wants to be an oil man working in the Middle East or an American police officer. His family is from Yemen and he’s the 10th son of a 10th son.

He admires me, he said, because I dropped everything and am hitchhiking and working hard in carnivals in pursuit of my dream.

“Sometimes you just have to go for it,” he said.

He is a serious man in his early twenties, Muslim, devout. I only mention his religion because he doesn’t mention God lightly.

He asked me what kind of people pick up hitchhikers these days and I essentially said ‘all kinds.’ On that hitchhike from California on my way to New Jersey, I’d already been picked up by an inventor, lawyer, two grandmothers, several unemployed men, a painter, a male nurse, a power station worker, hippies, a preacher, retirees and more.

“Do you know one type of person I haven’t been picked up by but I’m still waiting?” I said.

Which?

“A young, beautiful, blonde woman,” I said. “I’ve read about it happening (in Penthouse Forum) but I’ve never been picked up by a young, beautiful, woman.”

Then I acted angry.

Always serious, the driver looked over from his seat.

“Oh no, that’s too much to ask from God!”

Recently, someone posted my main photo art for Eyes Like Carnivals on Pinterest. So I decided to check out the site in general and hit ‘search’ for “hitchhiking.”

Pictures featured scantily clad, beautiful young women.

Fantasy hitchhikers, people you’d pick up in the April Memphis rain.

Ten months after getting that ride, being warned it is too much to ask of God, I realized I wasn’t the only one disappointed by the lack of highway hotties.

I’m not eye candy either but I got rides. On that rainy Memphis morning surrounded by monuments to good will, I got a lesson in charity.

Still, God, if you’re listening …

*The “giving” quote is from Anne Frank’s “The Diary of a Young Girl.”

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My year working in traveling carnivals and hitchhiking between spots ends this month but I’ll continue to file weekly until I finish the backlogged stories. I’ve hitchhiked from the Pacific to the Atlantic to Lake Michigan to the Gulf of Alaska to the Gulf of Mexico. With 15,000 miles under my belt, I am the #1 hitchhiker in America for 2013-14.

Freak Show Interviews – Short E. Dangerously

The tall, successful-looking man next to me in the elevator was just making small talk when he asked why I carried so many books and notes with me.

I’m writing a book about traveling carnivals. I spent the year working and living in traveling carnivals and now it’s time to write a book. There was lots of hitchhiking involved too, I said.

“I used to work for the freak show every year at the Minnesota State Fair,” he said. “I used to pull the sword out of the sword swallower’s mouth.”

Writer Amy Tan says she wonders if the “universe” is sending her material for her books when she’s writing, because so much comes her way when writing that inspires her work (they are good novels).

It happens to me too but my subject is carnivals, carnies and the ephemeral locus of American communities. With a subject that broad, one is likely to run into people with connections to carnivals.

You never know what you’ll see in a freak show, or who those performers are in real life.

For my last day in my year in traveling carnivals, I asked King of the Sideshows Ward Hall if I could work in his freak show for a token amount and for just a day.

I saw the World of Wonders several times when I was working the billiards game for Adam West’s crew in at the Minnesota State Fair last summer.

The “World” was playing the Florida State Fair in Tampa and I wanted to get a toe into the freak show side of the industry. Hall agreed and I took tickets and was a gopher.

Twenty-two-inch tall Short E. Dangerously is the only classic “freak” in the show, called a “half man” because he was born without legs.

At the World of Wonders show in Florida, people ate fire, swallowed swords and performed magic, including a guillotine routine with a head thrown into the crowd. Illusions, Ward said, are most of the show these days.

Hall blames political correctness for the decline in “human oddities” wanting to perform in sideshows. Hall has worked in the sideshow business for 60 years and knows his freaks.

“I’ve worked with hundreds of human oddities,” he said. “Giants, midgets, alligator skin men, bearded ladies, the monkey girl, pinheads, midgets, dwarfs, the armless girls, the living half men, all worked for me in the past.”

Shorty started touring in sideshows just a couple years ago and now travels the world. He’s knocked out by the fame and travel. Before one performance, (performances run continuously almost all day), he looked back at fellow performer and beautiful assistant Sunshine and said, “I know, sometimes I can’t believe all this myself.”

It’s hard work as you’ll see in his interview.

I found his lack of neuroses compelling. He says he had a happy childhood. He loves music and women. He’s healthy. He makes money and travels the world. He’s a happy man.

Without a hint of self pity for the cards he was dealt, he proclaims himself a lucky half man and a rocker.

I’ve read experts who say otherwise, but I believe a man is happy if he thinks so. I also believe most of what we see, we should question.

You never know what you’ll see in a sideshow, on stage, behind the stage or in an elevator.

You never know the shape of a happy man.

Q & A with Short E. Dangerously

1 – Where did you grow up and what was it like?

“I was born a mile and a half from the Ohio- Michigan border. I grew up in Columbus, Ohio. But my mother’s side is completely from northern Michigan, I spent a lot of my life there with relatives. My childhood was fairly normal. My parents split up when I was 5. My mom raised me as a single mother.”

2 – Do you have medical problems that accompany your disability?

“I have no medical conditions related to my disability. I do have joint problems in my shoulders and arms. But I manage the pain thru over the counter medications and other herbal remedies.”

3 – How did you take your condition, were people cruel?

“I took my condition just fine and so did the people around me. If they didn’t then they didn’t need to be a part of my life.. Plain and simple. There were a few assholes along the way, but it was dealt with accordingly.”

4 – How did you decide to get into the entertainment business?

“My love of music is why I choose the entertainment business. I had a band in High School. I have always liked being on a stage. Things with the band didn’t work out. So while I was in college I knew a DJ and him and I talked a lot and realized that is what I wanted to do.”

5 – Being a DJ at a strip club? Were you a favorite of the dancers? Were there wild nights?

“I was a favorite of most of the dancers. The ones I wasn’t still respected me and didn’t give me any problems. There were plenty of wild nights! But I’m not going to go into details. I think you can figure it out.”

6 – How did make the transition to the carnival shows?

“I made the transition to the sideshow by a phone call form Tommy the manager of WOW. I was tired of DJing and was looking for something different to try. I was offered the chance to tour with them for the 2012 season. It changed my life and the rest as they say is history.”

7 – What is your act?

“The acts that I do are acrobatics, fire breathing, and I also throw knives.”

8 – Where in the world have you traveled with you act?

“I have been to New Zealand, Brazil, Venezuela, Germany, Spain, and Australia.”

9 – Do you feel like you are part of a bigger tradition, a time honored profession? What do you call yourself, “freak,” “carny,” showman, entertainer?

“I do feel like I am part of something. Its becoming a dying art and I only wish I discovered it sooner. I consider myself and entertainer first and foremost, but I’m also a showman. I just happen to be a freak.”

10 – How hard do you work?

“When I’m with WOW between 15-20 1/2 hour shows a day. Sometimes as many as 30. I know that I have done the bowling ball stunt at least 15-1800 times since I debuted it in Minnesota last year.”

11 – What makes you happy, in life?

“Being on the road good friends family. Being on Stage is an incredible rush.”

12 – What makes you happy when on the road?

“On the road is the performing, the fans, but most I love just going down the road to the next gig.”

13 – What’s the future for you. Wife and kids and grandkids? Buy a business and get off the road? Movies, books? More countries and more roads?

“Not so sure about wife, I will never get off the road. I would like to have my own show in the next 2-5 years or so. So yeah, more countries and more roads.”

14 – Are you a happy man?

“I am very happy right now with my life.”

15 – If you could do it all again, who would you be in the next life (Ward Hall told me he’d be a faith healer).

“If I had to pick I would be a rock star!”


16 – What kind of rock star. Any road stories? Any tricks gone wrong? Are you really Dangerously?


“Metal!,,, We were a cover band. Lots of Metallica covers. I was the front man. No nothing super funny on the road… No real problems. We are/were very close. Everyone pretty much got along. I have had knives bounce back at me before.. I was in LA filming a TV show and one bounced back and almost caught me in the chest… and the name is taken from an old wrestling promoter. His name is Paul Heyman but his ring name was Paul E. Dangerously. I took the name and made it Short E. so I could still keep Shorty in my professional name. My real name is Aaron.”

*Answers are in full and unedited.

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This month marks the end of my year working and living in traveling carnivals around the USA. I lived on carnival wages so I also hitchhiked between jumps. I’ve traveled through 36 states, Canada and Mexico, for more than 20,000 miles. My 15,000 miles of hitchhiking makes me the #1 Hitchhiker in America. I worked carnivals in California, New Jersey, New York, Chicago, Alaska, Minnesota, Oklahoma, Texas, Georgia and Florida. I worked rides, games and one freak show.

My Last Carny Job at a Freak Show

Chris Christ and crewShort E. DangersouslyBackstage trailerTattoo Lady

First photo is of co-owner of the World of Wonders Chris Christ along with the carnival barker and clown.

Second photo is of Short E. Dangerously, the half man, who also throws knives, eats fire and tells jokes.

Third photo is the crew backstage in the trailer, which is also their sleeping quarters.

The Tattoo Lady also swallows fire and helps with other acts.

This was my last carnival job in my year in carnivals. Thank you to Sideshow King Ward Hall for hiring me as a ticket taker and gopher for the day.
If they only knew what a freak I am on the inside, I’d have been a star.

A full story will come sometime soon, maybe next week.

Elvis the Mark, Carny Kids & the Showtown Allstars

Elizabeth & Original Tommy
Elizabeth, 9, and her dad Original Tommy Arnold at the Showtown USA restaurant/bar in Gibsonton, Fl. seated at the Liar’s Table. She’s literally learning about the business at the knee of her father.

“An unexciting truth may be eclipsed by a thrilling lie.”
Aldous Huxley

Elizabeth is a precocious third-grader on her dad’s lap at the Liar’s Table at Showtown USA, Gibsonton, Fl.

“Original Tommy” Arnold is in his 80s and a living legend in the traveling carnival world. O.T. is a carnival storyteller.

“Elvis won more than we let most people win, he kept throwing the prizes to the crowd,” he said.

In 1957, Elvis scored a hit with “Jailhouse Rock” but hadn’t yet been drafted into the Army.

At a Memphis carnival, he stopped to throw softballs at Original Tommy’s milk bottles game.

If Elvis wasn’t yet the king, he was the crown prince of the midway.

“The girls went crazy,” said the veteran carnival owner. “He drew a big crowd.”

What’s interesting about Original Tommy’s story is he remembers few details other than the line that makes his Elvis story a classic carny story.

“He spent maybe $200 on my game and that was a lot of money in those days.”

He took Elvis for a $200 and drew a crowd to boot.

Elvis may have been the crown prince of the midway but Original Tommy got him to lay out two C-notes.

There’s some irony in their table name because they also talk about the old “flat joints,” games where suckers cannot win. Alibi stores are games carnies must make excuses, “you crossed the line,” to foil a winner.

I didn’t ask how he “gaffed” the game but you can be sure Original Tommy let Elvis win just enough to keep playing and keep throwing toys to the excited fans.

In Original Tommy’s story, crown prince Elvis was just a mark.

Showtown sundown

The Liar’s Table at Showtown bar/restaurant is the liveliest breakfast table. During this month’s Super Trade Show Extravaganza in Gibsonton, old pros sat around the table like a secret hall of fame.

The carnival world is a subculture and the stars of its realm are found in hidden places like the faded Showtown USA.

Showtown is the creation of Bill Browning who painted elaborate stories on the walls of the restaurant, at countless carnivals and at the International Independent Showmen’s Association headquarters in town.

He used to yearly repaint and reframe the story on Showtown’s front facade.

All his art tells stories and often brings nature to the indoors with boardwalk and carnival scenes.

The carnival business inspires many artists, possibly because there is so much painting required.

Browning’s paintings at the IISA headquarters building cover the walls and easily make him the most famous carnival artist.

However, Browning isn’t actively painting these days and many of his Showtown stories are fading on the walls.

A food critic might suggest even the menu is old school. This morning it is chipped beef over toast, two eggs, $5.99.

I hear Showtown is still a vibrant place but the cigarette-smoke walls tell stories of bygone golden eras.

The Liar’s Table is its living time warp.

Dash of Flash

Flash said to me once, “If a carny doesn’t have a nickname, he isn’t interesting.”

Nick the Prick. Luke the Puke. Even Flash’s nickname has a back story.

“That’s what this business is based on, everything the sucker sees out there is flash,” he said.

Flash is cash, is the phrase I heard as a jointee, a game worker.

One morning the ballys started flying and I started taping as guys from different sides of the table urged the marks to buy.

The Mayor of the Liar’s Table is Freddy Vonderheim, 76, former circus and carnival owner (a special breed he calls showman transvestites).

Flash and the Mayor are retired from the business, but they can still bark them out.

When the Mayor pipes up, you know thousands have heard it on thousands of midways.

“I’m Donniker Dan (donniker is a carny toilet),
the candy man,
with circus straaawbery candy,
all you kids who want candy,
please hold up your hand!!!”

Flash came back with his own, ending in a carnival limerick, more than a bally.

“They were brewing up coffee seconds and thirds,
Those happy go lucky carnival birds.”


Born under a ride

Original Tommy bounced Elizabeth on his knee and told me how she wants to be an artist someday too.

Maybe face painting, he said.

Elizabeth is in third grade, just like Grace so I show her my daughter’s picture.

She loves hugging and playing games with the old men and a few younger ones around the table. Some get big hugs around the necks.

“I like it,” she says of her life in carnivals. “I get to go on all the rides for free.”

During the season she lives with Original Tommy and plays with other kids her age, also traveling with the carnival.

Asked about the highlights of his carnival life, Tommy says she’s the highlight of his life.

She loves teasing her old single father.

“My dad burns eggs, burns muffins, he burns everything you want to eat except cake and cereal,” she said.

Later that evening I was editing tape in a room near the main bar at the IISA headquarters.

My favorite bartender came over, Anna May, she’s in her 50s or 60s. She’s proud she raised her kids in carnivals without ever being homeless.

They were raised in the trailer during the season and she’s proud of the job she did, while running games, rides and working the ticket booth.

Then she noticed a picture of Original Tommy and Elizabeth on my computer.

I thought she might say something about their age difference but she had something to say about her age difference.

“That’s my granddaughter and Tommy’s my son-in-law,” she said. “A lot of people in this business are related.”

Kids born in the carnival business are said to be “born under a ride.”

Elizabeth comes from a long line of carnival people and she wants to be an artist, maybe a carnival artist.

“Elizabeth the artist” would make people here at Showtown USA very proud and that’s what passes for the thrilling truth at the Liar’s Table.

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My year working and living in traveling carnivals ends this week. My last carnival job was at a freak show owned by King of the Sideshows Ward Hall. I have numerous stories from the last two weeks and unreported stories during the year. So there’ll be more stories to come on hitchhiking and working American carnivals from Alaska to Florida, from California to New York.

Liar’s Table Showtown Showdown – Ballys!!!

Like any other subculture, you have to know where to find the legends. In the carnival business, they gather mornings at Showtown in Gibsonton, Florida.
This is during the “Super Trade Show Extravaganza” in Gibsonton, Florida. It’s called Showtown USA because so many carnival workers still come here for winters quarters, to work and to retire.

“Awesome Olympics” before going on road

I filmed this the weekend before going out on a year working in traveling carnivals and hitchhiking.

Missing one’s family is part of the experience for many. Others bring their families. Still, others hide from their families.

As a snowstorm fell today in Chicago, I came across videos from my last time with Grace in a suburban Chicago winter.

It has nothing to do with carnivals, except her next year would be haunted by thoughts of her absentee father working and living in traveling carnivals in places she only could look up on the map.

Freaks and Carnies: Sideshow King’s views will Amaze!!!

“If life isn’t seeking for the grail it may be a damned amusing game.”
F. Scott Fitzgerald

I’m currently homeless and had to edit this video in a packed carny bar, so please forgive the flaws.

This is my video of this week at the national carny gathering in Carnytown USA, narrated by the World’s Most Famous Carny and King of the Sideshows Ward Hall. The eighty-four-year-old talks about the freaks and oddities he employed and their search for meaning in their lives.

Hall says they often turn to works of charity and to religion, thus the presence of “carny priests” and “carny preachers.”

The video shows how homes, rides, games, trucks all share the same yards in Gibsonton, Fla.. The “Super” Trade Show “Extravaganza” is appropriately overhyped. The headline for this article is also written in that click fishing style.

This is nearly the end of my year in carnivals for EyesLikeCarnivals.com. Hall says he’ll hire me tomorrow for his World of Wonders freak show at the Florida State Fair, Tampa, Fla. I think I’ll be paid in snacks but I’ll be adding another state fair to my year’s total and a freak show.

I now will have worked in California, New Jersey, New York, Chicago, Alaska, Minneapolis, Oklahoma, Texas, Georgia and Florida. I will have worked five state fairs with nine carnival companies.

I am the #1 hitchhiker in America in 2014, with nearly 15,000 miles and 26 states and Canada under my belt. In total, I traveled well in excess of 20,000 miles through 36 states.

I wrote www.EyesLikeCarnivals.com all the way. I wrote almost weekly for The Huffington Post’s blog section.

The Chicago Tribune Magazine wrote a full-page essay on me. Northwestern Magazine and the Northwestern University main Web site carried an essay by me on the year. Marquette University’ magazine has contracted for an upcoming 2,000 word essay.

Now the hard work begins, writing and publishing. I’m thinking of going to New York next month to visit with publishers.

F. Scott Fitzgerald once wrote that in the real dark soul of man it is always 3 a.m. It is also closing time at the carny bar, night folks!